And you might know it was here that Charlie Parker, Count Basie, Big Joe Turner and hundreds of others defined the sounds in the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s.

But until you visit, you might not realize this is still a vibrant and exciting musical city where you can find live jazz seven nights a week, and often in the afternoons as well.

Make the Oak Bar at the Fairmont Hotel your first stop. Located along the banks of Brush Creek in the charming Plaza area, the bar features live jazz seven nights a week. Especially on weekends when Joe Cartwright (pianist) and his friends play in its wood-paneled plushy chaired elegance, you just sit back, enjoy a drink and lose yourself in their polished music.

Next, head to dinner at Jardine's, a genuine supper club with good food, reasonable prices and a changing roster of jazz singers including the beloved Ida McBeth. On the Saturday evening of my visit, Ida was there, belting out songs with a smooth and powerful voice that somehow manages to carress the music, not merely sing it. Her portfolio includes old favorites such as ``Going to Kansas City,'' ballads, jazz and blues, show tunes and gospel.

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