The Day of the Dead is all about celebration. It's when the souls of the dearly departed come back from the beyond to join families and friends in the land of the living to do the things they enjoyed most when they still had meat on their bones. That's why you see all those happy little skeletons doing happy little things like dancing, riding bicycles, playing in mariachi bands or, up here in Alaska, landing a salmon the size of a retriever.

Lora Mahaffey, cake decorator extraordinaire of Calliope Designs & Confections, knew nothing of the Day of the Dead until she went to Mexico for her birthday, which happens to be Nov. 2. That was some time ago, back when she was in her 20s. But she'll never forget it.

It seemed the whole town was partying down at the cemetery. The scene was breathtaking, with graves all decorated with candles, feathers, bottle caps "and all kinds of funky stuff." There were also thousands and thousands of marigold petals arranged in patterns all over the graves and throughout the graveyard to help lure the spirits back to their loved ones with their scent.

Mahaffey liked what she saw so much she incorporated elements of the Day of the Dead into her own birthday celebration. Like making her own sugar skulls, which represent those who've passed on and are an integral part of this tradition.

There's nothing morbid about skulls or skeletons or dead people on this holiday. It's about celebrating their lives and showing respect. And Mahaffey likes the way the festivities so openly acknowledge that death is part of the cycle of life. "We don't look at death in our culture at all," she said. "It's a silent issue for us. Avert our eyes is what we tend to do."

Day of the Dead can be traced back at least 3,000 years to Aztec and Mayan times. Originally, it fell on the ninth month of the Aztec solar calendar, around the beginning of August. Festivities lasted the better part of a month with the goddess Mictecacihuatl, the Lady of Death, presiding. Spanish conquistadors didn't approve. In an attempt to convert indigenous people to Catholicism, the festival was moved to the beginning of November to coincide with All Saints and All Souls days.

Actually, there are two Days of the Dead. Nov. 1 is for welcoming back children who have passed on, and Nov. 2 for adults. For los angelitos, offerings of sweets are a given. For the grown-ups, it's whatever.

"What's important is that whoever does the food makes the food your ancestors liked," said Anchorage artist Angela Ramirez, who honors her own ancestors this way.

"The idea, as I understand it, has always been, you to go to the graveyard, or you make your altar, and you have food set up as an offering to your relatives," she said. "You kind of wait for them to partake of the spirit of that food, and then leaving them a portion, everyone else digs in.

She's set one up many years, with her dead grandparents as guests of honor. She's decorated her altars with marigolds she's grown and dried herself, with candles -- the universal symbol of transformation -- and with other things to make them more personal. Her altars have not only offerings of food but also offerings of her grandparents' favorite beverage.

Ramirez has used molds to make her own sugar skulls, writing the names of the dead people across their foreheads. You can go wild decorating them, using colored icing, beads, sequins, whatever you want.

As for food, sugar skulls are about the only constant you'll see in graveyards and on altars during Day of the Dead celebrations. Sugar skulls and pan de muerto, a sweet bread that comes various ways but typically with a criss-cross on top to represent bones, and knobs to represent skulls.

"From my upbringing, I've learned the bread represents nourishment needed for survival, water is to quench the thirst and to purify, and salt is for purification and for seasoning," she explained.

In Veracruz, tecojotes, a crab applelike fruit eaten raw or candied, is a common altar offering. Tangerines, too, for their sweetness and their scent. And in addition to candy skulls, chocolate and jamoncillo, a kind of marzipan candy shaped like little fruits, flowers and whatnot.

"All these foods provide an enticing aroma that along with the scent from "cempasuchil (marigolds) lead our loved-ones back to us on the Day of the Dead.

Tyler Crenshaw, general manager of La Mex restaurants, used to set up an elaborate, three-tiered altar at the downtown location. Now that it's closed, the altar has been moved to the La Mex on Dimond Boulevard.

"I usually put fresh tamales out and just different fruits and vegetables," he said. "One thing that has to be there is Day of the Dead bread (pan de muerto). I usually make it myself.

Those interested in putting together an altar of their own can pick up a brochure at the restaurant that suggests ways to do it and includes a recipe for pan de muerto.

Those who have no time or interest in such things can order their pan de muerto, with at least 48 hours notice, from The French Oven, 563-8989. It's a little late for this year. But there's always next.

ALTAR: The Spot Gallery, 333 W. Fourth Ave., Suite 12, will feature a Dia de los Muertos altar from 6 to 8 tonight. The reception will feature traditional pan de muerto (sweet bread) from The French Oven Bakery and Mexican hot chocolate. The altar will be on display free for viewing through Sunday. The gallery will also feature new mixed-media, Mexican-inspired paintings by Indra Arriaga for the First Friday reception this week, 6 to 8 p.m. Refreshments will be served. This event is free. For more information, call 952-1959.

CHEVY SILVERADO Z71 2000 V8 4x4, custom stereo, three door cab, clean and in good condition. Asking $14,800 o.b.o. located in anchorage. Contact Dustin at 907)-443-2668.

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